As may be expected coming from a former child star, justin bieber clothes has already established many a fashion transformation over the years. He’s done quiffed hair and a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented using a floppy fringe as well as a suit. But while some of his tries to toughen up happen to be met with derision, the most recent element of the Biebvolution is definitely bang on the fashion money. There have been ripped jeans. There were oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts using the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, there has been a great deal of layering – and lots of raw edges.
Not all people gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s response to his Marques’Almeida moment in the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) but the latest incarnation of Bieber ties in a mood that is sweeping through menswear – and might be arriving in your wardrobe soon.
In a nutshell: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy has gone out. Deliberately undone and messy is at. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge by using a tracksuit top along with a pierced ear thrown in for good measure. You could potentially dub it a hot mess for males, but the one thing you will never consider it is hipster – manicured beards ought to be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber hoodie wore to the teen awards, has been integral to the boost in interest in denim as well as jeans which can be hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the level of look that creates parents eyeroll and say: “You purchased that? Do want me to put proper hems on those?”, it has legs. Elsewhere on the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent herringbone trousers that were roughly cut off on the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a sort of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing happening; up close, the holes over these knits are layered over a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a kind of anti-luxury luxury – is there in all of the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy certainly is the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is an excellent reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, probably the most in-demand photographers in fashion, these pictures possess a typical masculine rawness. In the short video to accompany this shoot, you may also see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories for your latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile is This Man?, while the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The second sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a couple of days amount of facial hair.
Haute scruff had also been all over one of the more talked-about moments of the spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, that was held in a Chinese restaurant variously identified as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes that were all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like they had just rolled out of bed. Most of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, like the parcel delivery service); including the show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a turn on the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots plus a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence in vogue is only set to continue: after the show, certainly one of Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, would be to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy is yet another of the buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label has become maintained by Comme des Garçons. His clothes think that a nerdy handle Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, yet not.
Actually, if all else fails, the real key to this look is a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) for males. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for ladies (see British Vogue’s December issue, by which several tracktops are featured within the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all a bit Damon Albarn circa 1996. How come this humble zip-up summarize this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, since it ticks the 1990s box – along with the dexqpkyy16 has become the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the opposite of the justin bieber clothing that has been the headline news in menswear within the last number of years. And then finally, it’s an easy task to chuck on, doesn’t appear to be you’ve made an effort but suggests that you know what’s taking place. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
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